The Insides of Wallpaper Removal

You’ve been looking at the same four walls for months or maybe even years with the same thought, “I wish I could change that awful wallpaper!” but never thought you had the skills or money to get it done. Well, you may not have the money, but if you have the patience, you can change that old look.

Wallpaper removal can be tricky; here are some of the hidden pitfalls.

• The undercoating-If the drywall has been painted prior to the wallpaper being applied then the job will be quicker. However, if the drywall has not been prepped then the job just got worse. The removal process can damage the drywall paper under the wallpaper. It is very sensitive and can absorb the water and chemicals used to strip the wallpaper. This can cause you to gouge the paper and create timelier repair issues later.


• Painted over wallpaper- If the wallpaper has been painted over then the job gets a bit tougher. Wallpaper is thin enough to score using a scoring tool designed to cause minimal damage to the drywall paper underneath, but may not be deep enough to score through the paint and wallpaper, especially if there is more than one coat of paint over the paper.

Before you get started it is necessary to take an inventory of all the items that you may need.

• Wallpaper scoring tool: Paper Tiger (generally found at any hardware or painting store) or a razor blade


• Wallpaper removal chemical: DIF or for starch based adhesive water and vinegar. You may also use a rented or store bought steamer for this process, while the rented steamers are usually better, the latter is generally a good investment if you have a large job that requires more time


• Plastic putty knife-It is advisable to obtain a 2” to 2 ˝” putty knife as they are easier to handle, but it is based on your comfort.


• Clean up- Large bucket, sponge, terry towel and cleaning solution. The cleaning solution should be mild. It will be used to remove any old adhesive left on the drywall. Use either fabric softener (diluted) or a TSP solution.


• Drywall Spackling- Choose lightweight spackling for small imperfections or choose joint compound for larger areas.


• Drywall sandpaper and sanding block-used to smooth out spackling or joint compound. Choose either a handheld sanding block or one that can be attached to a pole for higher, harder to reach areas.


• Tack cloth-Used to remove drywall dust before painting

Score the Paper

Using the wallpaper scoring tool that you chose earlier, score the wallpaper. This step is time consuming given the area to be treated, but necessary. Take the time if using a paper tiger to score all areas well. It is especially necessary if the wallpaper is vinyl. Vinyl wallpaper is designed to repel water and be water washable, so it is resistant to the chemicals you will be using to release the adhesive.

If you are in the position of having to remove painted over wallpaper, then a razor blade will be your desired tool. Using the razor blade, cut multiple X patterns in the wallpaper. Be careful not to cut too deep.

Store bought adhesive removers generally use an enzyme to quickly breakdown the adhesive. If used properly the wallpaper should come off in sheets after being treated for about thirty minutes. Follow the instructions located on the bottle of the remover. Test an area of the wall to check the undercoating and the remover’s effectiveness on it. This will show you if the remover is working on the adhesive and if there is a painted surface under the paper, (the best outcome). If you notice the paper is not coming off as a solid piece, then you may have to score the area more, apply more remover or allow more time for the remover to work.

Only begin using a water/vinegar solution if you are certain that it is a starch based adhesive. These adhesives were used quite some time ago are replaced by newer, stronger adhesives. If you have a newer home, than you more than likely have a stronger adhesive to remove and should start with a store bought remover.

After the paper is removed, now comes the time to clean up. Using either fabric softener, (2 tablespoons of liquid fabric softener to one gallon of water) or TSP (Follow directions on packaging), begin to wash the walls. You can use either a wall sponge or a terry towel for this process. You will be able to feel any left over adhesive on the wall. After washing the walls it is recommended that you rinse them to remove any left over soap solution. Allow the area to dry overnight.

You are now in the home stretch. It has required a lot of patience to get to this point, but a little more is required. If, through the course of your stripping, you created any defects in the drywall paper, you must correct these before applying paint or primer. Fill any nail holes or razor marks with a lightweight spackling compound. There are some on the market that can be primed over within an hour and some require more drying time, be sure to read all indications on the label. For larger damages, use a joint compound. These areas will require that you let them dry overnight to properly cure before sanding and painting. Apply the spackling in an area approximately three inches larger than the damaged area to allow you to feather the area further masking the repair. After allowing the appropriate amount of time for drying, sand the area smooth and use the tack cloth to remove any dust left on the wall.

You now have a smooth wall that is ready for whatever you want to throw at it. Before choosing your finish, speak to your retailer on the different priming options available then choose the one best for your final finish. Happy Painting!

Mark Chambers has been in the home improvement industry for 14 years and has written numerous articles on home improvent.

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